Halloween!

[unforth]

So I randomly decided that for Halloween this year, I'd go ahead and make a Civil War era outfit - not a dress, no, don't have time or money (or, actually, inclination) to do that - instead, I'm making a Union Officers outfit. So now I find myself doing some research for just what pieces I'll need to pull this off. I was gonna make it a private post, but, well, why bother? I'll make it public.


So, the beginning step of this is...I don't have much money. That had originally been going to keep me from doing Halloween at all, but then when I was in Amsterdam, I was sitting at a cafe and a couple of Brits behind me were having a conversation about all of the awesome things they've done for Halloween in the past, and wondering what they'd do this year. Ever since then, I realized that I'd be very, very sad if I didn't have a costume. What I don't have is money - but mom had offered to buy me an expensive gift on the trip (round about $200) which I didn't get - so I talked to her, and have transferred that budget to a costume. :)



I started at Abraham's Lady, an awesome clothing store in Gettysburg that I found in the spring. I ordered the patterns for a simple pair of pants, white shirt, and a uniform frock coat (the three patterns are listed here.)

Cost for the patterns: $47

However, the devil is in the details. I haven't quite decided just what level of detail I'm going to (I suspect this will have more to do with my finances than anything else). However a few things I can't avoid: buttons, patches, and a hat. What other detail is there? What isn't there! Knapsack with kit, cartridge and bags, side arms of various kinds (obviously problematic), and more! I'm not worrying about shoes, for one - I'll just wear my boots, they're not perfect but they'll do.

Double Breasted Union Uniform Coat




3 buttons on each wrist
8 down the center (two rows of 7 on the double breasted)
2 patches (one on each shoulder)
This is a bit different than the coat I'm doing, which is single breasted:



I found buttons at a site that looks like it'll have most of what I need in general, once I figure out what I need. I'm thinking I'll make it as if I'm from New York (even though my Civil War ancestor fought for Iowa...)

I'll also need 3 buttons for the shirt (shell), and an as-yet unknown number for the pants (pewter).

Cost for the buttons:
8 large NY buttons - $12
6 small NY buttons - $7.50
1 large shell button - $0.35
2 small shell buttons - $0.40
Pewter buttons - L - $0.35, S - $0.25

Officer's Kepi with the Stripes of a Lieutenant


I guess I'll have to figure out what rank to be. Different officers have increasingly complex patterns on the top; either way, I'll just buy a cheap, normal repro kepi and add whatever rank stuff I need myself, along with an insignia.

Cost for a normal kepi: $24.50
Cost for infantry bugle brass insignia: $2.50

Patches:
There are patches on the shoulders. Not sure where else...
Here are the types of patches. I'm kind of leaning towards lieutenant, just cause I have easy reference for it...

Pair of Lt. shoulder patches: $22.50

Sash:
Apparently, lieutenant's wear red sashes. I can buy one for $42.00, but I think I'll probably just fake it, I can do it much cheaper. They're bright red, and made of wool.


Brogans (shoes) - I could get authentic shoes for $75.00. No point.

General reference:
http://www.memorialhall.mass.edu/activities/dressup/notflash/civil_war_soldier.html
http://winchestersutler.com/ - look like they'll have all the accessories I need. So what accessories do I need?
http://www.19th-century-us-history.com/wardrobe/american_civil_war/union/q-0501_cw_enlisted_frockcoat-us.htm - this has good info about some of the more minor details on a single breasted style coat.
http://www.19th-century-us-history.com/wardrobe/american_civil_war/union/q-0403_cw_junior_officers_frockcoat-us.htm - this one also has good detail

Materials:
Trim for the uniform coat. Infantry trim is light blue.
Cloth is sold here, but the repro stuff seems pricey. Then again, I could be sure it's the right size.

The Jacket, apparently, calls for 3 and 1/2 yards of dark blue wool for the outside, and 3 yards of black cotton for lining. (60")
The shirt calls for 3 and 1/2 yards of...er...white stuff. (45")
The pants call for 4 "W" yards and another 1/4 for the pockets (I think that's what it means - no clue what the W refers to...) (45") Pants are sky blue wool.

Here is an awesome color and fabric guide!

Looks like only cavalry men need gloves. Woot?

Anyway, I'm starting to hit the wall a little (I've got a cold, which has been making it hard to concentrate on things for extended periods of time), but I thought I'd quickly try to snag some pictures that might give a good idea of what I'd like to go for.

Union Lieutenant: (E.K. Butler, New York State Militia)

This was my first match, and I think it's about perfect! If I think that the elements he's got are about right, then what I really need are:
Hat
Jacket
Pants
Shoes (my boots will pass)
Sash
Belt
Sabre
(buttons, trim, patches, insignia)

Here's one without some of that extra stuff:

Aside from the fact that he is as skinny in the waist as any girl, I do think that the uniform looks kind of inadequate without some of the extras. Also, I'm getting a little worried by how tailored it seems the uniform coats are supposed to be. I mean...I'm a girl...

Another:

This fellows coat is a bit less tailored - good - and he's got the chevrons on the arm which, if I've read correctly, makes him a higher rank than lieutenant. No - that's wrong - it makes him a non-commissioned officer (a sergeant or a corporal) as opposed to a captain or a lieutenant. (Here's a handy site describing the ranks).

More actual images:
Lt. Col. in the 2nd NJ Infantry
Lt. Col. in the 11th NY Infantry
Lt. Col. in the 62nd PA Infantry
Lt. in the 4th NY Heavy Artillery
Lt. in the 43rd Mass. Infantry

Right. I think I've got enough to go with now. Just have to worry about the cost...

Comments

[d-c-m.livejournal.com]

You are going to look utterly adorable and fantastic in that costume!! There had better be pictures. :)

[unforth.livejournal.com]

There will definitely be pictures. I'm thinking I'll even use the black and white settings on my camera to take one all old-fashioned looking. ;)

[d-c-m.livejournal.com]

Yes! So do that!!

[milbrcrsan.livejournal.com]

*shudder* I've been sewing for six years and haven't even attempted anything of the like, even though the husband has always wanted a Civil War outfit. But good luck! It'll look awesome at completion! :)

[unforth.livejournal.com]

Does it really look that hard? I've always wanted to a Civil War uniform as well, I wanted to be a reenacter when I was a kid, but reality has set in (well, I'm a girl...)...but it'll certainly work for Halloween. I'm more worried about the cost for the extra details - aside from the coat it's pretty simple (guess it had to be since all of it was being mass-produced for the army...) :)

All of which is to say...I bet you could do it if you wanted to! :)

[milbrcrsan.livejournal.com]

It's all the tailoring involved and buttons that scare me off. I'm not very good at fitting clothes properly, I don't even know how to do it exactly. My mom even told me I needed to take up sewing classes, since I pretty much taught myself how to sew. I'm just lazy and give up easily. :)

But since you do have the details worked out, I doubt you'll have trouble. :p

[unforth.livejournal.com]

I'm a bit worried about the tailoring....I'm self taught also, and also not particularly good at detailed tailoring. My usual answer to this problem is to corset things, but somehow I don't think that's going to work this time... :) Still, I just figure I'll manage somehow. ;)

[footlingagain.livejournal.com]

Wow. Your dedication and attention to detail are AWESOME.

[unforth.livejournal.com]

I tend to think the devil is in the details, and if it's worth doing it's worth doing right. ;)

[ozziel.livejournal.com]

I have a union sabre you can use, if you don't already have one.

[unforth.livejournal.com]

That's...awesome. For now, I'm not going to carry any weaponry, since I intend to go the parade in the Village and there are obvious problems with bringing a sword to a parade attended by a million+ people...but in the future? Absolutely would love to borrow it...

[galiyah.livejournal.com]

Very exciting!! I can't wait to see the finished product. As far as tailoring, the easiest thing to do might be to cut it to fit your chest/shoulders and then take it in at the waist as much as needed. It won't be perfect, but that's a lot easier than adding darts and such.

[unforth.livejournal.com]

My current plan for the tailoring is to make a version out of muslin, tailor it as close as possible, and then use that as the pattern for the coat. Hopefully it'll work out... :)

[galiyah.livejournal.com]

That'll certainly work. You're far more ambitious than I am, I must say.